Decanter Article on Central Otago Pinot Noir

Central Otago Pinot Noir: panel tasting results

Gibbston Valley 2012

Decanter average score: 18.75pts/20 (95+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 19 Roger Jones 19 Philip Tuck 18.5 
Price:  £26.99 (2009) Hard to Find Wines

Gibbston Valley is one of Central Otago’s oldest wine producers, with its first commercial release in 1987. It has seven vineyards: two in the Gibbston sub-region and five in the Bendigo sub-region. This wine is a blend, with 70% of the grapes from warmer Bendigo and 30% from Gibbston. The favourable 2012 vintage produced a wine with slightly lower alcohol than the normal 14%. That may have contributed to a style with more restrained fruit and more obvious mineral and savoury character. The wine was allowed five to six weeks’ maceration on the skins and was aged for 11 months in French barriques, 25% new.

Melanie Brown The nose is full of crushed berries with warm spices, which follow through on to the palate, along with nice tannins. The finish is seamless with aromatic floral notes. This is fresh, gripping, stalky goodness. Roger Jones Savoury on the nose with hints of stalk and lovely perfume, which evolves into a stunning, delicate and feminine wine. You just want to drink this! Philip Tuck Lifted concentration on the nose, which is clean and pure. Lovely fruit flavours on the palate with real concentration and balance without being heavy. Fresh grip on the finish adds a touch of class. This is a very long and elegant wine.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 13.5%


Pisa Range Estate, Black Poplar Block, Pisa 2010

Decanter average score: 18.75pts/20 (95+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18.5 Roger Jones 18.5 Philip Tuck 19 
Price: £49.92 Charles Mitchell


For many, this is a Pinot Noir that sums up all that is best about Central Otago. Vine age approaching 20 years has contributed to the pungent aroma and impressively dense and sumptuous texture. The vineyard is in Pisa, adjacent to the Cromwell Basin – the heartland of the Central Otago wine region. Each clone of Pinot Noir is harvested separately for optimum ripeness. The wine was aged in French oak barriques. For a long time after the first vintage of the Pinot Noir was released in 2000, owners Warwick and Jenny Hawker produced only Pinot Noir, although they have recently released a Riesling and Pinot Gris.

Melanie Brown This is rich with very pretty aromatics and then juicy berries and an intense floral flavour. A good backbone makes this vibrant and it has a lovely finish. Roger Jones A touch of liquorice on the nose is nice with the intense fruit flavours. This is rich with a touch of confection and is a very pleasant wine to drink. Philip Tuck Lovely nose with real complexity and style, especially regarding the use of oak. It has a fabulous silky texture and perfect tannic grip. This is superb, albeit in a rich and overt style

Drink 2014–2016
Alc 14%



Gibbston Valley, China Terrace, Bendigo 2012

Decanter average score: 18.5pts/20 (95/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18.5 Roger Jones 18.5 Philip Tuck 18.5 
Price: £37.99 (2009) Hard to Find Wines

With two wines in this top five Outstanding list, Gibbston Valley is clearly the star of the show. Surprisingly, its flagship Reserve Pinot Noir and highly rated School House Pinot Noir missed the cut, although both earned a Highly Recommended honours (see p89). China Terrace is a high-altitude (320m), high-performing vineyard in the warm Bendigo sub-region. It’s a serious Pinot Noir that doesn’t conform to the Central Otago fruit-bomb stereotype but is an altogether sleeker and more savoury style, with a firm structure, thanks in part to the use of some whole cluster bunches in the fermentation to boost tannins. Although the wine can certainly be appreciated now, as the judges will testify, its best years lie ahead.

Melanie Brown Good weight and structure with a silky texture but power too, which is all held together with dark, juicy fruits. Very enticing. Roger Jones The savoury nose gives way to a long, lingering palate of delicate fruit and an amazing floral and spicy length. This tastes well developed now but will get even better. Philip Tuck Lovely purity and complexity on the nose. This is impressive and very enticing. Will age well.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 14%


Kalex Wines 2011

Decanter average score: 18.5pts/20 (95/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18.5 Roger Jones 18.5 PT 18.5 
Price: N/A UK kalexwines.com

US-based owner Alex Kaufman describes himself as a ‘businessman, entrepreneur and survivor’. He fell in love with New Zealand when he visited the country in 1998, and his passion for wine encouraged him to make wine in Central Otago. Kalex Pinot Noir blends wines from growers in several sub-regions – in this case the wine is made from grapes grown in Bendigo, Bannockburn, Pisa and Gibbston. Vine age, favourable aspects and soil quality are important factors in site selection. The wine was left, unusually, to macerate on the skins for up to three months before it was pressed and racked to barrels. This wine was bottled without fining or filtration.

Melanie Brown Blackcurrant with chocolate and spice adds another dimension to this wine. The savoury mushroom nuances on the palate, as well as the layer of various aromatics, make for great drinking. Roger Jones The different fruit layers are lovely and delicate, giving a stunning wine. This wine will evolve over the years but is drinking well now too. Philip Tuck Classy and complex nose with real depth and concentration. Very impressive. The palate is silky and fresh with length and good grip. I couldn’t fault this wine.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 13.8%


Nanny Goat Vineyard, Super Nanny 2012

Decanter average score: 18.5pts/20 (95/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18.5 Roger Jones 18.5 Philip Tuck 18.5 
Price: N/A UK Nannygoatvineyard.co.nz

This limited-production wine is made from a selection of the best small parcels of superior grapes in favourable vintages. The grapes hail from the Bannockburn district, an area generally recognised as Central Otago’s ’sweet spot’. Hand-picked grapes were carefully sorted and fermented using 12% to 15% whole bunches for extra tannin and complexity. The wine was aged for 15 months in French oak barriques, including 40% new barrels. The difference in both quality and style between this Super Nanny and the winery’s regular label (see p92) is considerable. Obviously the major factor is meticulous grape selection but the wine has also been given the Rolls Royce treatment from vineyard to bottle. The result certainly justifies considerable effort.

Melanie Brown Freshly crushed berries with spice and a soft oak structure makes for an exciting taste. It’s rich with a lingering and silky finish. Roger Jones A savoury nose with a thick palate texture and lots of lingering black fruit. It has lovely balance and well-integrated alcohol. Philip Tuck Floral and somewhat citric nose, which is lifted. This is easy to enjoy for its purity and fruitiness. The texture is that of silk but with a fine grippy finish. Very attractive and extremely well made.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 14.2%


Wooing Tree, Beetle Juice, Cromwell 2012

Decanter average score: 18.25pts/20 (94/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18 Roger Jones 18 Philip Tuck 18.5 
Price: £21.65–£22.50 Butlers, Cheddar Vine, Gerrard

Seel, Slurp, Wines of Interest Fresh and delicate nose with real Burgundian style, which makes it attractive and enticing. Aromatic and fruity palate gives way to a rich, satisfying finish.

Drink 2014–2016
Alc 14.5%


8 Ranges, Barrel Selection, 2010

Decanter average score: 17.75pts/20 (92/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18.5 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 17.5 
Price: N/A UK 8ranges.co.nz

Some attractive development has given great complexity to this wine. It’s savoury with a bit of spice, and clean, fresh flavours on the palate. The finish is concentrated and fruity.

Drink 2014–2016 
Alc 13.7%


Felton Road, Cornish Point, Bannockburn 2012

Decanter average score: 17.75pts/20 (92/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 18.5 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: £30–£47.50 Cozzi & Boffa, Cornish Point Wines, Harvey Nichols, Hawkshead, Howard Ripley, Stone Vine & Sun, The Secret Cellar, The Solent Cellar, Woodwinters

Classic nose of dark cherries and rose blossom, which gives way to a lovely mouthfeel of velvety red berries. The aromatics linger on the palate making this a classy wine.

Drink 2014–2020 
Alc 14.5%


Invivo, Reserve, Bannockburn 2012

Decanter average score: 17.75pts/20 (92/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17.5 Roger Jones 18 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: N/A UK www.invivowines.com

Classy nose of generous rhubarb and savoury spices makes this very complex. The oak is well balanced with generous fruit throughout the palate. This is stunning on its own or with food.

Drink 2014–2016
Alc 14%


Mount Edward, Morrison Vineyard, Lowburn 2011

Decanter average score: 17.75pts/20 (92/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 16 Roger Jones 19 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: £34–£43.99 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent

Savoury, spiced aromatic nose followed by a silky, lingering palate that is quite generous and satisfying. Lots of good grip and freshness makes this a fantastic drink or great with food.

Drink 2014–2015
Alc 13.5%


Rippon, Mature Vine, Lake Wanaka 2010

Decanter average score: 17.75pts/20 (92/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 18.5 Philip Tuck 17.5 
Price: £24(ib)–£29.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, Lea & Sandeman

A slightly shy nose with hints of black fruit. Lots of spice and tannin on the palate with multiple layers of fruit and a very delicate finish. Very impressive length with subtle floral notes.

Drink 2014–2017
Alc 14%


Bannock Burn Creek Vineyard, Tatty Bogler 2010

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18 Roger Jones 17 Philip Tuck 17.5 
Price: N/A UK forrestwines.co.nz

A good, well-balanced Pinot Noir with silky textures and fruits that evolve in the mouth. There are hints of spice and some tannin, which will allow this to continue ageing, but is certainly drinking well now.

Drink 2014–2020
Alc 14%


Felton Road, Bannockburn 2012

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17.5 Roger Jones 17 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: £25–£39.50 widely available through distributor, Cornish Point Wines

Youthful and concentrated with pronounced violets and intense red fruit. This has lots of crunchy berry fruit with a good structure and length. Impressive purity and very fresh.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 14%


Felton Road, Block 3, Bannockburn 2012

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17.5 Roger Jones 17 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: £49.5–£74.95 widely available through distributor, Cornish Point Wines

Lovely nose of dark fruit and chocolate. The palate is concentrated with the chocolate coming through which is accented by liquorice. Good tannin structure and excellent balance.

Drink 2014–2020
Alc 14%


Felton Road, Calvert, Bannockburn 2012

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 16.5 Roger Jones 18 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: £30.50–£36 widely available through distributor, Cornish Point Wines

Subtly complex and very enticing gentle bouquet. The palate has a solid oak foundation but is still fresh and attractive. An aftertaste of admirable length.

Drink 2014–2020
Alc 14%


Folding Hill, Orchard Block, Bendigo 2010

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: £30 The Butlers Wine Co, The Secret Cellar, Woodwinters

Subtle complexity with impressive depth and richness moving to layers of texture and creaminess on the palate. Lots of spice and plum make this a real taste sensation.

Drink 2014–2015 

Alc 14%


Judge Rock, Alexandra 2012

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18.5 Roger Jones 17 Philip Tuck 17 
Price: N/A UK judgerock.co.nz

Concentrated dark fruit with marzipan and cherry notes giving way to a well-structured palate of delicate fruit and subtle oak. A luscious finish of subtle oak complexity.

Drink 2014–2017
Alc 13.2%


Lowburn Ferry, Home Block 2010

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: £26.99 Black Dog Wine Agency

Lovely briary and earthy complexity with cherries and plums backing it up. This has aged very well and is an excellent example of Central Otago Pinot Noir. An amazing food wine.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 14%


Maude 2011

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18.5 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 16.5 
Price: £21.99–£29.95 Boutinot, Bentleys, D Byrne & Co, The Secret Cellar, Woodwinters

Delicate, nutty nose with some floral notes. Well-rounded body with good structure and many layers of fruit. The finish is silky leaving memories of cherry compote. Quite pleasing.

Drink 2014–2015
Alc 14%


Mount Edward 2011

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts)
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18 Roger Jones 18 Philip Tuck 16.5 
Price: £24–£29.99 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent

Gently floral nose with vibrant red fruits and a seductive and harmonious structure. The palate is savoury with a feminine style. Attractive with good concentration and depth.

Drink 2014–2016 

Alc 14%


Tarras Vineyards, The Canyon, Bendigo 2009

Decanter average score: 17.5pts/20 (91/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 16.5 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 18.5 
Price: £24.95 City Beverage

Violet and earthy aromas with some herbal notes. The palate is deeply impressive with just enough acidity to give freshness and drinkability. It has a nice weight and some richness with a very long finish. Excellent.

Drink 2014–2016
Alc 14%


8 Ranges, Trail Rider 2011

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18.5 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 16 
Price: N/A UK 8ranges.co.nz

A pristine nose of bright, red fruit. This wine is vibrant and focused in a medium-bodied style, with finely grained tannins and a good backbone. A fine finish with lingering notes of rhubarb crumble.

Drink 2014–2016
Alc 13%


Akarua, Bannockburn 2012

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 18 Philip Tuck 17 
Price: £22.95 OW Loeb

Perfumed and fruity nose with cassis and blackberry leading into a rich and luscious palate of vanilla, plum and blackberry crumble. The mouthfeel is silky with great balance and intensity. A lovely, fruity finish.

Drink 2014–2019 

Alc 14%


Archangel 2012

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 17 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: £23 The Vintner

Ripe cherry nose with hints of rose petals. Good concentration on the palate with flavours of liquorice and a savoury herb nuances. This is a gutsy yet balanced Pinot with excellent grip.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 13.5%


Ceres, Composition, Bannockburn 2010

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts)
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 17 Philip Tuck 17.5 
Price: N/A UK cereswines.co.nz

Subtle but nicely complex and not at all overstated. Savoury and cherry palate with great fruit purity and freshness. This is a delight with nice balance and a controlled fruity, juicy finish.

Drink 2014–2015
Alc 14%


Forrest Wines, John Forrest Collection, Bannockburn 2010

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 17.5 
Price: £16 (2011) Adnams

Very floral style with some spicy and savoury notes. The palate is well structured with definite concentration and poise, and flavours of plum and crushed floral notes. A long and elegant finish.

Drink 2014–2020
Alc 13.5%


Gibbston Valley, Reserve 2012

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17.5 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 17 
Price: £37.99 (2008) Hard to Find Wines

Quite bold and powerful with herbal and floral aromas. The palate is luscious with intense cherry and sweet plum fruit without being overripe. This is a crowd-pleaser with a great finish.

Drink 2014–2019
Alc 14%


Gibbston Valley, School House, Bendigo 2012

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts)
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 16.5 Roger Jones 18 Philip Tuck 17.5
Price: £37.99 (2009) Hard to Find Wines

Lashings of attractive spicy perfume with floral and fruit aromas. The palate is rich and textured with amazing concentration and a judicious use of oak. A plum and a savoury finish makes this a great food wine.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 14%


Grasshopper Rock, Earnscleugh Vineyard, Alexandra 2011

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17.5 Roger Jones 16.5 Philip Tuck 18 
Price: £19 Naked Wines

A soft, delicately perfumed nose of violets and black plums. The palate is beautifully balanced with real old-vine concentration, leading to an excellent finish. A finely structured wine indeed.

Drink 2014–2016
Alc 13.6%


Nevis Bluff, Pisa 2010

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 16.5 Roger Jones 18 Philip Tuck 17 
Price: N/A UK nevisbluff.co.nz

Distinctly spicy on the nose with judicious use of good oak. The body is voluptuous with rich, dark fruits and nicely rounded tannins. This is a perfect match for fine food and is drinking well now.

Drink 2014–2015
Alc 13.5%


Supper Club 2012

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 18 Roger Jones 16 Philip Tuck 17.5 
Price: N/A UK supperclubwines.com

Attractive floral lift with dark cherry complexity and a savoury mushroom edge. Excellent texture and overall balance with intense concentration and very good length.

Drink 2014–2015
Alc 13.5%


Tarras Vineyards, The Steppes, 2009

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17.5 Roger Jones 17 Philip Tuck 17 
Price: N/A UK tarrasvineyards.com

Lovely intensity on the nose of ripe berries with some class. A certainly subtlety on the midpalate with lots of lovely flavours mingling together. A balanced finish but tasting as though it is mature now.

Drink 2014–2015
Alc 13.5%


Terra Sancta, Slapjack Block, Bannockburn 2011

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 16 Roger Jones 18 Philip Tuck 17.5 
Price: N/A UK terrasancta.co.nz

Very fine aromatics and a soft delicate perfume that evolves in the mouth. Stunning textures and flavours of fruit with great freshness and complexity. This is long and satisfying.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 14.2%


Valli, Bannockburn 2012

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 16.5 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 17.5 
Price: £49.99 Armit

Floral scent with that delicate perfume coming through on the palate. Hints of greengage plums and white cherries with a distinct floral kick on the finish with earthy undertones.

Drink 2014–2018
Alc 13.5%


Wooing Tree, Sandstorm Reserve, Cromwell 2010

Decanter average score: 17.25pts/20 (90+/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 17.5 Philip Tuck 17.5 
Price: £55.95–£56.50 Seckford, Slurp, The Wine Cellar, The Drinkshop

Complex nose without being overly fruity or floral. Soft and seductive silky mouthfeel with a vanilla note. The palate is well structured with sufficient concentration and weight to keep quite well.

Drink 2014–2020
Alc 14%


Akarua, Rua, 2012

Decanter average score: 17pts/20 (90/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 18.5 Philip Tuck 15.5 
Price: £16.50–£21 Harvey Nichols, OW Loeb & Co, The Solent Cellar

A touch of toasted chocolate croissant on the nose with a silky texture and good fruit concentration on the palate. A real lively acidity with impressive concentration and a very berry-rich finish.

Drink 2014–2015
Alc 14%


Wild Earth Vineyards, Pisa 2010

Decanter average score: 17pts/20 (90/100pts) 
Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 17 Roger Jones 17 Philip Tuck 17 
Price: £18.95–£22 Carruthers & Kent, Liberty Wines, Slurp

Muted, but with plenty of underlying power. This is delicate, elegant and fulfilling. A complex wine with savoury and spicy tannins that linger with a concentration of dark, vanilla-scented plums.

Drink 2014–2015
Alc 13.8%


Source: http://www.decanter.com/wine/labels/34413/slideshow/0/central-otago-pinot-noir-panel-tasting-results#slideshow