Roundup of this week's wine reviews (31 July 2013)

South African wines galore, as we prepare for Wine Daddy's Tutored Tasting on 2 August. For more info, check out our Facebook page www.facebook.com/WineDaddy

Bellevue Estate Morkel Pinotage 2001
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Main varietal: Pinotage
Ratings: 4 stars (out of 5); 92pts (out of 100)

Cassis and complex berry jam on toast with a hint of vanilla. Blueberry and cream with raspberry, occasionally peaking out. Lovely mouthfeel with good persistence.


Fleur Du Cap Bergkelder Selection Merlot 2009
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Main varietal: Merlot
Ratings: 3.5 stars; 91pts

Initial musty cassis gives way to scented mulberry and plum notes. Vibrant and persistent palate.


Fleur Du Cap Bergkelder Selection Pinotage 2009
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Main varietal: Pinotage
Ratings: 3 stars; 89pts

Blackberry with a hint of smokey vanilla. Juicy texture.

Roundup of this week's wine reviews (24 July 2013)

"A heady and seductive note..." - Read on to discover which heavenly grape juice I'm describing!


Chandon de Briailles Les Vergelesses, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru 2005
Burgundy, France
Main varietal: Pinot Noir
Rating: 3 stars (out of 5); 90 pts (out of 100)

A basic burgundy. Nice savory notes, balanced fruit and spice. Great with food.


William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume 2007
Chablis, France
Main Varietal: Chardonnay
Rating: 4.1 stars; 93pts

Powerful and focused. Great complexity. Perfectly aged. Fig and pear notes on a soft mineral bed. Great with food.


Château de L'Estang Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux 2005
Libournais, Bordeaux, France
Main varietal: Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Rating: 4.2 stars; 92pts

Good cassis over mineral presentation. Nice intensity with good complexity as well. Well-balanced with medium length.


Capel Vale Margaret River Chardonnay 2011
Margaret River, Western Australia
Main varietal: Chardonnay
Rating: 3.3 stars; 91pts

Initially oak notes stick out in an unattractive manner. This quietens down to show a reference to New World Chardonnay with balanced fruit (peach and nectarine), minerality, good depth and intense yet restrained fruit. Slightly reductive? Needs two years to show better.


Taylors Estate Chardonnay 2010
Clare Valley, South Australia
Main varietal: Chardonnay
Rating: 3 stars; 91pts

Clean pear and peach notes on a bed of butterscotch, not shy. Drank well even after a week in the fridge.


Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2007
Montalcino, Italy
Main varietal: Sangiovese
Rating: 4.2 stars; 94pts

A heady and seductive nose which follows onto a palate with great balance and acidity. Complex cherry with hints of fig, compote and nuts. Elegance personified. Quietly persistent, patiently passionate.


E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2007
Southern Rhone, France
Main varietal: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre
Rating: 3.6 stars; 90pts

A real brooder for a generic. Still needs hours to open up even given that this bottle is 6 harvests past. Dark stone fruit with complexity beyond its pedigree. Nice evolution but can be frustrating for those who lack the time to listen to what this wine has to say.

20 July 2013 i-1-Wine Journey: An "afternoon delight"

Sanctuary@7 welcomes our new batch of Wine Journey participants. Press the doorbell and you're instantly transported to a secret world that has mesmerised humankind for 10,000 years...

First stop on our i-1-Wine Journey (yes, that stands for I WANT WINE!) is the wine cellar tour - a secret hole dug out in the ground (deeper than what you would dig for a swimming pool!) right underneath where we have our classes! Participants marvel at the treasures that the cellar holds, and stand at awe under the intimidating gaze of the cellar guardian - none other than Bacchus, Roman god of wine.

Next stop on our Wine Journey: the essential theory. This forms the basis of wine knowledge and tasting. As a wise person once said, "The more you love about wine, the more wines you love." Even before the first cork is popped, this group isn't shy about asking questions, such as:

• Which is better - cork, synthetic cork, or screwcap?
• What are the ideal conditions and temperature to store wines? What to do if one doesn't have a wine cellar or even a wine fridge?
• How long can one keep a bottle of wine, if unopened? And if opened?
• When's the best time to visit a wine region (like Margaret River, South Africa, Italy)?
• The merits of English wine (yes, there is such a thing)
• I smell cat pee in my wine! Which varietal could it be?

The "afternoon delights" tantalised on, with wine tickling the developing palates of our new wine adventurers and the Balinese ambiance at Sanctuary@7 forming the perfect backdrop. 

A total of 8 wines are tasted today, giving participants a preview of the possibilities of more advanced tastings, and giving them a taste of sparkling wine vs still, single varietal vs blends, Old World vs New World, different varietals from the same producer:

1. Australian sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir, Andrew Peace (2011)
2. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Wither Hills Malborough (2012)
3. Australian Chardonnay, Capel Vale Margaret River (2012)
4. South African Sauvignon Blanc/Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay blend, Nederburg (2012)
5. French Syrah, La Forge Estate Pays d'Oc (2009)
6. Australian Shiraz, Brown Brothers Victoria (2010)
7. Australia Merlot, Brown Brothers Victoria (2010)
8. Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, Brown Brothers Victoria (2010)

And sadly, the afternoon comes to an end. But not for long, we hope. Next stop on the Wine Daddy Express: A Tutored Tasting, and a Trip... Watch this space and the Wine Daddy Facebook page (www.facebook.com/WineDaddy) for details!

A rosé by any other name ...

How do we “see through” wine labels bragging naming atrocities beyond average comprehension and begging universal convention to shed light to all?

[Picture of the Jolie-Pitt Provence wine Chateau Miraval]



Shouldn’t informing the buyer what to expect when he opens the bottle be the primary driver in determining what gets said on the label? Unfortunately NO, or not yet!  And so, ununified and varying languages, history, regulations and marketing strategies have ensured bewilderment amongst the masses for generations to come. Sigh!!

As if it isn't it bad enough to have to face a barrage of bottles in various shades of clear (pun intended), green and brown, we are then greeted by a kaleidoscope of labels bearing information of varying degrees of use (personally, I find the alcohol % to be of utmost importance).

Naming and classification conventions vary from country to country and oft even between same country wines from neighbouring areas. Understanding that wines historically develop within and for their local market allows us to forgive the specificity of information that is useless to most. The new world producers are not usually burdened with historical issues and have mostly chosen to label their wines in a way that would maximise sales potential. Hooray for the masses!!

Then there’s the hullabaloo over who calls what when and how on the wine labels. The French, via the EU, fight tooth and nail to reclaim exclusivity for names long lost to the new world wine producers. They say no one else should use “Champagne” or “Burgundy” or …….. this list really does go on and even covers brandies (e.g. Cognac, Armagnac and Calvados). Not far behind are the Portuguese with their "Port" and the Spanish with "Sherry". Sigh some more!! Can’t we all just get along?

I for one, am all for looking past the pretty (and some not so pretty) labels to try and understand what’s in the bottle. Fortunately, there’s pretty much only one sure way to do that. Cheers!!

Roundup of this week's wine reviews (17 July 2013)

A nice bunch of food-friendly wines were sampled this week.


Cesari Essere Merlot 2010
Verona, Italy
Main varietal: Merlot
Rating: 3 stars (out of 5); 90 pts (out of 100)

Nice structure for a merlot. Bit of horizontal complexity too. Nice plum notes with good minerality.


Santa Luz Alba Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Central Valley, Chile
Main varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon
Rating: 3 stars; 89pts

Cassis, almost layered. Good mouthfeel with a fruity finish.


Saint Cosme Gigondas Valbelle 2005
Southern Rhone, France
Main varietal: Grenache Noir, Syrah
Rating: 3.8 stars; 93pts

Cellared for about 4 years. Double-decantered 3 hours before serving, so this wine quickly opens up and delivers complex red stone fruit flavours with hints of plum, smokiness, white pepper, cassis, vanilla... Lovely mouthfeel and decently persistent.


De Toren Stellenbosch Fusion V 1999
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Main varietal: The 5 (V!) Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot
Rating: 5 stars; 95pts

Ink-coloured. Vibrant and fresh on the palate, boasting complex cassis, mint and a myriad of flavours, big in depth and breadth.


Bird in Hand Shiraz 2011
Mount Lofty Ranges, Australia
Main varietal: Shiraz
Rating: 4.2 stars; 92pts

Crushed pepper, plums and cassis. Good intensity and persistence. An elegant expression of Australian shiraz, appreciate the French rather than American oaking.



Bird in Hand Merlot 2011
Mount Lofty Ranges, Australia
Main varietal: Merlot
Rating: 4 stars; 92pts

Fleshy-textured with some semblance of structure. Less-ripe plum with some meaty hints. Quite yummy.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico 2007
Tuscany, Italy
Main varietal: Sangiovese
Rating: 3.8 stars; 90pts

This bottle is tasting a bit more rustic than expected. Great with food.


Caliboro Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Maule Valley, Chile
Main varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon
Rating: 3 stars; 90pts

This bottle has not been well-stored, showing oxidative hints. Otherwise, nice intense cassis with oak notes. Age-worthy.


Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
Tuscany, Italy
Main varietal: Sangiovese
Rating: 4 stars; 93pts

Typical chianti savory cherry with nice pepper hints. Complex, long, layered.

14 July 2013 i-1-Wine Journey: A stroll through wine on Bastille Day (hopefully not to the guillotine!)

What better way to fill a Sunday afternoon than to celebrate Bastille Day as befits the home of wine, with a wine theory and tasting class?

Recognising the differing levels of wine knowledge among the participants, the theory part of the class (roughly 1/3 of the session) is kept flexible. This particular group, enthusiastic and not shy about asking questions, is ideal as their approach keeps the discussion relevant to their needs and also keeps yawns to a strict minimum.

Moving quickly onto the tutored tasting, participants are encouraged to dig deep in their smell and taste memories to make tasting more relevant to our local tongues. Instead of gooseberries, perhaps the wine reminds us of longan, or durian?!! Participants are also given pointers on noting the characteristics of Old World vs New World wines.

Lively discussion ensues around the following topics (and this is just a sample):

• What wines to bring to a bbq
• Whether and when to decant
• Champagnes vs sparkling wines; Fortified wines in Malaysia
• Food pairing with local food e.g. "siew yoke"
• What does one mean when one says a wine tastes of leather, or is mineral?
• How to do reverse olfactory when one's nose is blocked?

A total of 9 wines are tasted today, giving participants a preview of the possibilities of more advanced tastings, and giving them a taste of sparkling wine vs still, single varietal vs blends, Old World vs New World, different varietals from the same producer:

1. Australian sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir, Andrew Peace (2011)
2. South African Sauvignon Blanc/Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay blend, Nederburg (2012)
3. French Chardonnay, La Forge Estate Pays d'Oc (2010)
4. Australian Chardonnay, Taylors (2010)
5. French Syrah, La Forge Estate Pays d'Oc (2009)
6. Australian Shiraz, Bird In Hand (2011)
7. Australia Merlot, Bird In Hand (2011)
8. Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, Bird In Hand (2011)
9. Australian dessert wine, Brown Brothers (2010)

Round-up of this week’s wine reviews (11 Jul 2013)

A couple of Barolos and a botrytised Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa beat the snot-nosed Bordeaux and Burgundies this week!

Parusso Armando Barolo 2007

Cuneo, Italy

Main varietal: Nebbiolo

Rating: 4 stars (out of 5); 92pts (out of 100)

375ml bottle. This one opens from the first pour. Heavy and complex floral-like nuances on the nose, increasing slowly in intensity with time. Grows in depth, richness and power. Well-made Barolo.

Pierre André Bourgogne Grande Tradition 2004

Burgundy, France

Main varietal: Pinot Noir

Rating: 3.5 stars (out of 5); 90pts (out of 100)

This particular bottle was not well-stored at all. Murky and contains solid sedimentation. Very light brick in colour with very little red. Behind oxidised sherry notes, however, is a pretty nose. Sweet-ish, complex red stone fruit on the palate.

Grant Burge Brut Pinor Noir Chardonnay Methode Traditional N.V.

Australia

Main varietal: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

Rating: 3.5 stars (out of 5); 90pts (out of 100)

Less expressive on the nose but this is made up for with great weight and persistence. More Old World-like but slightly lacking in acidity.

Andrew Peace Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot 2011

Australia

Main varietal: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

Rating: 3.5 stars (out of 5); 90pts (out of 100)

Fruity attack with litchi (better still, longan). Bubbles are reasonably persistent. Sweet-ish hint but finishes reasonably dry.

Henri Boillot Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru 2005

Burgundy, France

Main varietal: Pinot Noir

Rating: 3.3 stars (out of 5); 88pts (out of 100)

A bit of a let-down for the vintage. Smokey, oaky and New World in its presentation, the winemaker appears to have abandoned what is most precious to Burgundy – finesse.

Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana 2006

Cuneo, Italy

Main varietal: Nebbiolo

Rating: 4.1 stars (out of 5); 92pts (out of 100)

Slow to open and very big. Tannins still firm. Great structure, depth and layering but will probably drink better the second day.

QF2 Botrytised Sauvignon Blanc N.V.

South Africa

Main varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Rating: 4.5 stars (out of 5); 93pts (out of 100)

A balanced expression of preserved apricot, honeyed and raisin notes with balancing acidity, persistence and complexity. Bought 10 years ago.

Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré St. Julien 2008

Medoc, France

Main varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Rating: 3.3 stars (out of 5); 89pts (out of 100)

Cassis with hints of violets and vanilla. Easy and approachable.

Château Léoville Poyferré 2008

Medoc, France

Main varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Rating: 3.6 stars (out of 5); 92pts (out of 100)

Intense cassis with cedar and cigar box notes as well as underlying Bordeaux gravel minerality. Good complexity, depth and persistence.

Michel Rolland’s Château Le Bon Pasteur 1996

Libournais, France

Main varietal: Merlot

Rating: 4 stars (out of 5); 92pts (out of 100)

Good depth and persistence. Velvet textured.

Comtes Von Neipperg Canon La Gaffeliere 2010

Libournais, France

Main varietal: Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Rating: 3.5 stars (out of 5); 90pts (out of 100)

Fairly intense cassis with good depth. Not much else.

Château Rauzan-Gassies Margaux 2001

Medoc, France

Main varietal: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

Rating: 4.3 stars (out of 5); 92pts (out of 100)

375ml bottle, gives a wonderfully mature Bordeaux with velvety texture, complex cassis and vanilla cedar notes.